AMFI Transit 2014: BA Graduate Show | ARTS TREAD
Written by Jainy Gans
Image by Peter Stigter
"Thirteen polished, well researched, conceptually inspiring collections graced the graduate catwalk at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, AMFI. With hand-drawn prints, voluminous top pieces and men and women swapping design styles popping up across all collections, we can highlight graphics, progressive proportions and gender blurring as the key directions. These are ARTS THREAD top picks.
The absolute shining star of the show was Alina Doll, thanks to a perfect styled, soft yet visionary collection. Shaped by renowned Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf during a six month internship, Alina showcased her acquired moulage skills with a series of beautifully moulded, skin-toned seamless pieces adorned with subtle embroideries, sequins and whipstitch patterns highlighting new contours.
Alina Doll’s male counterpart was the Korean-born student Sukhwan Cho Adriaanse, who like more AMFI students interned at Alexander Wang in New York this year. Adriaanse impressed with a smart sports-infused menswear collection based on traditional Asian cuts. Key designs include a green tell-tale cracked metallic sweater on black leather shorts, cropped kimono-cuts which looked surprisingly masculine and as the finishing touch: black, silver and white wired baseball caps.
Inspired by “ugliness” Shanita de Vries, who interned at Ann Demeulenmeester and Haider Ackermann during her time at AMFI, presented a conceptually strong womenswear collection that classifies as rich too in terms of colour, texture and print use. The collection was slightly provocative too, highlighting the silicone boob-sweater, fake glasses and pubic hair shorts made from voluminous fur-like yarns. Shanita explored all that doesn’t add up or make sense to her, driving her to design a new masculine-cut silhouette in which broad-shouldered, padded and stitched-up pieces were key.
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